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Tain golf course, Scotland. July 2024
I sit under the looming north face of Ben Nevis, the UK’s largest peak, where I am ending my three weeks on the road. Less romantically, that seat is in a Costa coffee drive-thru, where I am eating a mediocre £5.45 toastie so I can sit and type. Such is the throng of tourists everywhere up here, this is one of the fe…
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