11. Inspiration

The Breath of Artistic Creation

Breathe, breathe in the air. Don’t be afraid to care.

Pink Floyd

I wasted twenty years of my working life not surfing. Recently, I succumbed. I progressed quickly, perhaps too quickly, from paddling to standing to facing the swell to plunging under a thundering wave to being trapped with the board over my head. Adrenaline flooded me. As I gasped for breat…